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Buying a Sustainable, Environmentally Conscious Home in Michigan

Buying a sustainable home in Michigan involves looking beyond the basic real estate checklist. In addition to price and location, you’ll need to consider zoning laws, environmental conditions, infrastructure (like wells or septic), and even financing nuances unique to eco-friendly homes. This statewide guide covers key factors – from keeping backyard chickens to testing for contaminants – so you can make an informed, environmentally conscious home purchase anywhere in Michigan. (This guide expands upon Metro Detroit-specific advice to encompass the whole state.)


sustainable living in michigan

Statewide Zoning and Property Use Regulations


Michigan does not have a single statewide zoning code; each city, township, or county sets its own ordinances under the Michigan Zoning Enabling Act. Generally, residential zones are more restrictive than agricultural/rural zones. When purchasing a home, review the local zoning ordinance to understand what uses are allowed on the property. Key considerations include whether you can keep small livestock, maintain large gardens, build accessory structures, or add green infrastructure like solar panels or wind turbines. Many communities permit sustainability features but with some rules. For example, some suburban cities limit front-yard vegetable gardens via weed ordinances, while others explicitly allow them – so checking local code is essential. If you plan to build an accessory dwelling unit (ADU) (like an in-law suite or tiny house) or a barn/studio, note that some municipalities allow ADUs by right in certain residential zones, whereas others prohibit or require special permits (canr.msu.edu.) Rural and agricultural zones are typically more permissive (e.g. allowing larger outbuildings, farming activities, and livestock), whereas dense urban neighborhoods often have tighter rules (such as height limits for wind turbines or restrictions on raising animals). Always verify setback requirements, size limits, and permit needs for greenhouses, rainwater cisterns, or wind generators – these usually fall under accessory structure regulations. The good news is that rainwater harvesting is legal and even encouraged in Michigan (the state places no restrictions on rainwater catchment)(todayshomeowner.com), and many local governments promote rain barrel use to reduce stormwater runoff.



Backyard chickens are becoming more common in Michigan’s cities and suburbs. Local ordinances often allow a small number of hens (commonly 3–6) with conditions like no roosters, cleanliness standards, and minimum lot size (canr.msu.edu). Check your municipal code or animal ordinance for specific limits before buying a home if you plan to keep chickens or other livestock.


Urban farming and livestock: Rules for keeping chickens, bees, or goats vary widely. Many Michigan municipalities now allow backyard hens with limitations on number (often around 4 to 6 hens) and a prohibition on roosters (canr.msu.edu). Coops typically must meet setback requirements (e.g. at least 10–20 feet from neighbors’ residences) (canr.msu.edu). For example, Ann Arbor and Grand Rapids allow a small number of hens with a permit, and Detroit in 2024 passed a long-awaited ordinance to let residents keep chickens, ducks, and honeybees for personal use (outliermedia.org). This reflects a trend toward supporting urban agriculture. However, some suburban towns still ban backyard poultry or require large lot sizes, so verify local ordinances. Michigan’s Right to Farm Act (RTFA) traditionally protected farm operations from nuisance lawsuits if they follow GAAMPs (Generally Accepted Agricultural Management Practices). But in practice, RTFA does not automatically override local bans on small-scale residential livestock in cities unless the activity is bona fide agriculture. (In 2014, site-selection GAAMPs were revised to effectively exclude most backyard farms in dense neighborhoods, giving locals control.) That said, new legislation is pending as of 2025 – House Bills 4049 and 4050 – that would explicitly allow backyard hens statewide. HB 4049 proposes to amend zoning law to permit up to 5 hens per 1/4 acre (max 25 hens) on residential property without special approval (thumbwind.com). Its companion HB 4050 would require the state to create GAAMP standards for urban poultry and reaffirm that the RTFA preempts local ordinances once those standards exist (thumbwind.com).


If these bills become law, even homeowners in currently restrictive communities could keep chickens (with basic rules for acreage, flock size, and management). As of mid-2025, the bills are in committee and not yet enacted, so for now you must abide by your local ordinance. In summary, if a sustainable lifestyle for you includes keeping chickens or bees, research each prospective home’s local animal ordinance or talk to the city clerk/zoning department. Communities supportive of urban farming will have clear guidelines (permit process, coop standards, etc.), whereas others may prohibit it. Also, check for any homeowner association (HOA) covenants that might ban animals even if the city allows them.

 Solar panels on a Michigan home. Thanks to the new Homeowners’ Energy Policy Act (effective 2025), HOA-governed communities can no longer ban solar installations or other green home upgrades (planetdetroit.org.)


Solar panels and HOAs: One of the most important recent developments is Michigan’s Homeowners’ Energy Policy Act (Public Act 68 of 2024). Signed by Gov. Whitmer and effective April 2025, this law limits the power of homeowners’ associations to restrict solar and other clean energy devices. Under the Act, an HOA cannot outright prohibit rooftop solar panels or other energy-saving improvements on a member’s home (planetdetroit.org). This includes not only solar PV systems but also EV charging stations, clotheslines, solar water heaters, and energy-efficient HVAC like heat pumps (planetdetroit.org). HOAs are required to adopt a written solar policy by September 2025 consistent with the new law. They may impose reasonable rules for aesthetics and safety, but cannot enforce any design standard that adds more than $1,000 in cost or reduces system output by over 10% (planetdetroit.org). In practice, this means HOA rules forcing panels to be obscured from street view or only in back yards are unlawful if they severely impair performance. The law primarily addresses single-family homes (not condos/apartments with shared roofs) and still allows basic review/approval processes, but it empowers individual homeowners to go solar without fear of HOA veto. Michigan joined over two dozen other states with such “solar access” protections (planetdetroit.org). If you’re buying a home that’s under an HOA and you have sustainability goals (solar, a backyard wind turbine, etc.), be aware of this new state protection. You should still obtain and read the HOA’s bylaws and covenants – they might have rules on panel placement, battery storage, or allowable solar panel styles. However, any outright ban or unreasonable hurdle is now overridden by state law. Beyond HOAs, check local building permit requirements: most cities require electrical and building permits for solar installations, and some have zoning rules for ground-mounted arrays or large wind turbines.


In general, small rooftop solar systems are permitted across Michigan. A 2008 state law bars local governments from taxing solar panels as a separate real property improvement (to avoid higher property taxes for solar homes) (gcmpc.org). Wind energy systems may face height restrictions – many zoning codes treat a home wind turbine as a special-use that must be approved if taller than the usual accessory structure limit (often 35–60 feet in residential areas (legislature.mi.gov). Additionally, some jurisdictions have ordinances encouraging green building features – for instance, “solar-ready” construction guidelines or expedited permits for rainwater harvesting systems (michigan.govtodayshomeowner.com). Bottom line: Michigan’s zoning landscape is a patchwork, but trends are moving toward accommodating sustainability. Always confirm what is allowed on your specific property. Contact the local planning/zoning office or refer to online municipal code libraries (many Michigan cities publish zoning ordinances via Municode/eCode). If rural, also verify if farmland preservation or “Right to Farm” applies – an existing farm property enrolled in PA 116 or similar programs might come with use restrictions or tax benefits that you should understand. And if a property lies in a historic district or environmental overlay zone, there could be additional approvals needed for exterior changes like solar panels or removing trees.


Environmental Hazard Mapping and Mitigation


When buying an eco-conscious home, it’s crucial to know the environmental history of the land. Michigan’s industrial legacy and diverse geography mean some areas have contamination issues or natural hazards. Here are major environmental factors to research, along with ways to mitigate them:


  • Contaminated sites and groundwater plumes: Michigan has numerous sites impacted by pollutants like chlorinated solvents, dioxane, PFAS “forever chemicals,” PCBs, heavy metals, and more. Notable examples include the Gelman Sciences 1,4-dioxane plume in Washtenaw County (a several-square-mile groundwater contamination spreading under Ann Arbor) (hrwc.org), legacy PCB pollution in the Kalamazoo River from paper mill discharges (a Superfund site spanning 80 miles of river and floodplain) (epa.gov), dioxin-contaminated soils along the Tittabawassee River near Midland (from past Dow Chemical releases), and numerous PFAS contamination sites across the state. In fact, Michigan has at least 93 known sites of PFAS-contaminated groundwater – the most of any state – due to proactive testing efforts (meritlabs.com). These include former military bases like Wurtsmith AFB in Oscoda and Fort Grayling, industrial dump sites, plating factories, and even farmland where sewage sludge was used. While many contaminated sites are under cleanup, if you’re eyeing a property near one, you’ll want to investigate the status. Check if the site is a state-designated “facility” (Part 201 cleanup site) or on the EPA Superfund/NPL list, and whether contaminants could affect drinking water or soil on your property. For instance, homes with private wells within known contaminant plumes may require filtration systems or connection to municipal water. Mitigation: Always get a water test for any private well (more on that in the next section) – in areas with known groundwater pollution, test for those specific chemicals (e.g. dioxane, PFAS, volatile organic compounds) in addition to standard parameters. If soil contamination is a concern (e.g. near an old factory, gas station, or landfill), you can request a soil test for metals or industrial chemicals. Professional environmental consultants offer testing and Phase I environmental site assessments, which might be wise for properties formerly used for industrial or heavy agricultural purposes. Michigan’s EGLE (Environment, Great Lakes, and Energy) maintains an online RIDE Mapper tool showing locations of contaminated sites, Leaking Underground Storage Tanks (LUSTs), and brownfields (michigan.govgis-egle.hub.arcgis.com) – use this to see if any are on or near the property. Also, sellers in Michigan must disclose known environmental problems; if a property has documented contamination, the seller’s disclosure form should note it (legislature.mi.gov).


  • PFAS (“forever chemicals”): Given the high number of PFAS sites, be particularly mindful if buying near military airfields, firefighting training sites, chrome plating factories, or certain** lakes/rivers** with do-not-eat-fish advisories. PFAS chemicals (like PFOS, PFOA) can migrate far in groundwater. The state’s MPART website has a map of PFAS investigation areas (michigan.gov). If the home’s water comes from a municipal supply, you can review that utility’s water quality reports for PFAS results (Michigan now has strict PFAS limits for drinking water). If on a well near a known site, test your well for PFAS – and know that filters (activated carbon or reverse osmosis) can remove them if installed. Soil near airports or industrial areas could also have PFAS, but direct exposure risk is usually lower than water. Mitigation often involves providing alternate water or in-home filtration; full soil cleanup is rarer for residential settings unless it’s a Superfund-caliber issue.


  • Mining and mineral hazards: In parts of the Upper Peninsula and northern Lower Peninsula, historic mining activities have left contamination or physical hazards. For example, old copper mining sites on the Keweenaw Peninsula (like Torch Lake) have stamp sands and elevated metals in soil/sediment. Iron mining areas may have localized groundwater issues (like acidic drainage) or even subsidence risks if mine tunnels run underneath. There’s also concern of sulfide mining (for nickel, etc.) in the U.P. potentially impacting water with acid runoff. If buying near an old mine or tailings pile, you might need to test well water for metals like arsenic and lead, and avoid using contaminated soil for gardening. On the flip side, natural mineral occurrences can pose issues: for instance, some bedrock in Southeast Michigan contains arsenic that leaches into well water. Large swathes of Michigan’s Thumb and Tri-Cities area have arsenic in groundwater exceeding safe levels due to natural geology. Thus, well testing for arsenic is recommended in those regions (more on well tests below). Another example: parts of the U.P. have high natural uranium/radium, affecting well water radioactivity levels. Be aware of these regional quirks by consulting county health departments or EGLE’s data if you’re moving to a rural area.


  • Lead and legacy urban contaminants: Older cities like Detroit, Flint, Grand Rapids, and others have soil that may be polluted from decades of emissions (lead from leaded gasoline, foundry dust, etc.), chipping lead-based paint from old houses, and other urban residues. In Detroit, for instance, industrial sites and heavy traffic have contributed to elevated lead in soils; a recent study even used robins to map soil lead hotspots in Metro Detroit (planetdetroit.org). If you plan to garden or have kids playing in the dirt at a home built pre-1978 in an urban neighborhood, it’s wise to test the soil for lead. The Michigan Department of Health and Human Services (MDHHS) or local Extension offices sometimes offer soil lead screening programs. Remediation can be as simple as adding clean topsoil/compost and grass cover or using raised beds for veggies to avoid exposure.


    Disclosure laws: Sellers must disclose known environmental hazards including lead-based paint (federally mandated for pre-1978 homes) and contaminated soil (legislature.mi.gov). But they might not know about general urban soil conditions, so doing your own due diligence is important. Also, check if the home’s area was ever an orchard: from the 1890s through 1980s, arsenic- and lead-containing pesticides were heavily used in fruit orchards, and those toxic metals persist in soil (michigan.gov). Many suburban subdivisions in Michigan (especially in west Michigan and around old farm towns) are built on former orchards. If your prospective yard was an orchard, test for arsenic/lead in the soil and take precautions (like limiting children’s direct soil contact and washing home-grown produce) if levels are high.


  • Floodplains and wetlands: Michigan is a water-rich state, with extensive wetlands, rivers prone to flooding, and Great Lakes shorelines. Flood hazard is a critical factor for a sustainable home – you want to avoid or carefully plan for properties in flood-prone areas as climate change brings more intense rain events. Check FEMA’s Flood Insurance Rate Maps (FIRMs) to see if the property lies in a Special Flood Hazard Area (100-year floodplain). Federally backed lenders require flood insurance on any home in these high-risk zones (fema.govfema.gov), which can be costly (potentially thousands per year, depending on elevation and mitigation). Even outside official flood zones, you might inquire about past flooding – in recent years, “500-year” floods have hit Michigan (e.g. the Midland dam failures in 2020 flooded many homes outside the mapped floodplain). Mitigation: If you do buy in a floodplain, consider investing in floodproofing (sump pumps with backup power, elevated mechanical systems, proper grading away from the house). Also budget for flood insurance – it’s mandatory for mortgages in flood zones and wise even if not required, as standard homeowners insurance does not cover flood damage.


    • Wetlands are another factor: Michigan’s wetland protection law (Part 303, NREPA) regulates building on or near wetlands. A wetland on your property can be an asset (habitat, natural stormwater storage) but also a limitation. Regulated wetlands generally include those over 5 acres, or connected to lakes/streams (within 500 feet of an inland water or 1,000 feet of a Great Lake), or smaller wetlands deemed ecologically significant (rare species, etc.) (varnumlaw.com). If your land has a protected wetland, you likely cannot fill, drain, or build in it without a permit (varnumlaw.com), and permits are hard to get unless you demonstrate no feasible alternative. Local governments can also have their own wetland ordinances covering wetlands under 5 acres. So, consult EGLE’s Wetlands Map Viewer or hire a wetland consultant if you suspect part of a lot is wet – especially common in wooded or low-lying parcels. Building limitations might require you to maintain a buffer or only develop upland portions. On the plus side, keeping wetlands intact supports sustainability (flood control, groundwater recharge). Just be aware of restrictions: violating wetland laws can lead to fines and orders to restore the land (varnumlaw.com). Another hazard to note along the Great Lakes: coastal erosion zones. Some Lake Michigan and Superior shoreline properties are in designated High Risk Erosion Areas, which have special setback requirements and may restrict building too close to the bluff or shore (gis-egle.hub.arcgis.com). As lake levels fluctuate, erosion can be dramatic – factor this into any purchase of waterfront homes or vacant coastal land.


  • Drainage and soil stability: Michigan law requires that property owners do not alter drainage in a way that harms neighbors. When evaluating a home, look at how water flows on the property. Are there low spots indicating seasonal ponding? Does the yard slope toward the foundation? Sustainable homeownership may involve rain gardens or drainage swales to responsibly manage runoff. If the property is large, see if any county drains (ditches managed by a County Drain Commissioner) run through – these come with easements where building is restricted and maintenance could be an issue. For agricultural properties, also ask about tile drainage systems (buried drain pipes) that might crisscross fields. Another consideration is soil quality: if you intend to grow food, you’ll want healthy soil free of contaminants (see above) and with good structure. If it’s an ex-farmland lot, the soil may be compacted or nutrient-depleted from monocropping, but you can remediate with organic matter over time. In formerly industrial urban areas, “brownfield” lots might have been capped with new topsoil – verify what’s underneath if you plan to dig or plant extensively. Michigan’s Seller Disclosure Act obligates sellers to reveal known environmental issues (like contamination, underground fuel tanks, or drainage/flooding problems) (legislature.mi.gov). Nonetheless, it’s wise to do your own homework using tools like EGLE’s Environmental Mapper, FEMA’s Flood Map Center, and historic aerial photos (to see past land uses). If something concerning comes up, you can negotiate testing or cleanup as part of the deal, or decide to walk away in your inspection contingency period.


Well, Septic, and Soil Testing Requirements



Many sustainable homes are in rural or semi-rural areas where municipal water and sewer are not available. Buying a home with a private well and/or septic system means you must pay special attention to water quality, sewage disposal, and soil health. Michigan is one of the few states without a statewide septic code, so oversight falls to county health departments (wemu.orgwemu.org). Here’s what you need to know about wells, septics, and testing:


  • Private wells (water supply): About 1.12 million Michigan households use private wells for drinking water. Regulations for well construction and testing primarily come from local health departments following state guidelines. When purchasing a home with a well, it’s critical to test the water. Most counties require that new wells be tested when drilled, but ongoing or point-of-sale testing is not mandated statewide (unless a local ordinance requires it). A few counties do have “time of sale” well testing rules – e.g., Washtenaw County’s Time of Sale (TOS) program (in effect since 2000) requires the seller to have the well water tested and the well inspected before transfer (washtenaw.org). In Washtenaw’s program, ~18% of wells initially failed to meet standards (often due to bacteria) (wemu.org), underscoring why testing matters. Outside such counties, it falls on the buyer’s diligence (or lender requirements) to ensure potability. At minimum, have a certified lab test for coliform bacteria and nitrates, which are standard indicators of contamination. If coliform bacteria (especially E. coli) are present, it signals pathways for pathogens and the well may need disinfection or physical repair. High nitrate levels (>10 mg/L as N) can indicate agricultural runoff or septic influence and are particularly harmful to infants.

    • FHA and VA loans will require a water test for wells, typically checking coliform, nitrates/nitrites, and sometimes lead. VA guidelines note that if no local standards exist, the water must meet EPA standards (veteransunited.com) – meaning it should also be tested for lead and any known region-specific contaminants. Many Michigan wells have naturally occurring arsenic (especially in the Thumb and southeast counties); it’s wise to include arsenic in your test panel. The EPA limit is 10 ppb, though even 5 ppb is concerning for long-term health. Other suggested tests: lead (if the home has old plumbing or if the well is near industrial sites), fluoride (some areas have high natural fluoride), and iron/hardness (aesthetic issues, common in Michigan groundwater). If the property is near mining areas or known contamination, test for those specific contaminants (e.g. VOCs, PFAS, mercury, etc.). The Michigan EGLE offers an online search for certified drinking water laboratories (michigan.gov) and even occasional free testing programs for certain contaminants. Make sure the sample is taken correctly (often the county health office or a licensed well contractor can collect it). If problems are found, solutions include installing water treatment (like chlorination systems for bacteria, reverse osmosis for chemicals/metals, or water softeners for hardness/iron) or in severe cases, drilling a new well in a safer aquifer. Also inquire about the well’s age and depth – older shallow wells are more vulnerable to surface contamination and may not meet modern code (e.g. dug wells or sand points). Michigan’s Well Code generally requires casing the well to a certain depth and situating it away from septics, fuel tanks, etc. A well inspection should check that the well construction is sound and the pump is functioning. This is often done in tandem with septic inspection during sales.


  • Septic systems: About 1.3–1.4 million Michigan homes use on-site septic systems to treat wastewater (wemu.org). A failing septic is not only an environmental hazard (it can leak bacteria and nutrients to groundwater or nearby lakes) but also a costly repair for the homeowner. Since Michigan lacks a uniform septic code, each county health department sets its own rules for system permitting, installation, and inspection. Some counties – like Washtenaw, Ottawa, Kalamazoo, Benzie-Leelanau, and previously Barry-Eaton – have or had Point of Sale septic inspection ordinances. Washtenaw’s TOS program found ~18% failure rate in its first years (wemu.org), and Barry-Eaton’s (which ran 2007–2018) found ~27% of systems needed work (wemu.org). These programs require the seller to have the septic tank pumped and inspected by a certified inspector when a home transfers. If your target county doesn’t mandate this, you should still make a septic inspection a contract contingency. A proper inspection involves pumping out the tank (to examine its condition and baffles), assessing the absorption/drain field (sometimes with a probe or excavation to see if it’s saturated), and checking for any sewage breakout or backup. The inspector will also verify that no improper connections exist (like basement sump pumps or downspouts hooked into the septic, which can overload it). Ask for the septic permit and records – these can tell you the age, size, and location of the system. A typical concrete septic tank lasts 30-50 years; drain fields often 20-30 years, but it varies widely. If the home’s system is undersized or very old (or if it was “homemade” and never permitted), you might be inheriting a problem. Replacing a septic system can cost anywhere from $5,000 for a simple drainfield replacement to $20,000+ for advanced treatment units or difficult sites. Michigan law does require that failing septic systems be fixed (health departments can enforce correction if sewage is surfacing or polluting water), but in practice many go unnoticed until a sale or a major failure. That’s why checking upfront is crucial. Some local ordinances also forbid home additions if the septic is failing, etc. If a system is marginal, you could negotiate for a repair or escrow at closing. Environmentally, a well-functioning septic in suitable soil is quite sustainable – it naturally treats effluent onsite. But poorly drained soils (clay, high water table) or overused systems can cause nutrient leakage (contributing to groundwater nitrate or nearby lake algae). As a buyer, consider getting a water test for coliform and nitrate in any nearby wells (including your own if you have a well) – a spike could indicate septic leakage. Also look at the yard: lush, overly green grass or wet mushy areas over the drain field in dry weather can indicate effluent surfacing. Regulations wise, most counties require at least a 100-foot distance between a well and septic drain field (more if downhill), and at least 50 feet from any surface water. If the property is small, pay attention to these setbacks – a too-close well and septic could be a code issue or health risk.


  • Point-of-Sale (POS) ordinances: As mentioned, a few jurisdictions mandate well and septic checks during sales. For instance, Washtenaw County’s rule has been in place for over two decades (washtenaw.org). If you’re buying there (or other counties with POS ordinances), ensure the seller provides the required inspection reports and any health department clearance. If problems are found, typically the seller must address them (or sometimes buyers can assume responsibility via escrow). Be mindful of local variance: some townships might have their own requirements beyond the county’s. In the absence of an ordinance, many buyers still write into the offer that seller will pump the septic and provide a report, or that sale is contingent on a satisfactory water test. This is especially important if you’re using FHA/VA/USDA financing, as these loans have Minimum Property Requirements that include safe water and functional waste disposal. An FHA appraiser will note if the well or septic appear too close or if there are signs of failure, which can trigger a requirement to get an inspection or certification. Likewise, USDA Rural Development loans expect that the home “has a potable water supply and adequate sewage disposal.” Being proactive with testing can prevent loan approval delays.


  • Soil testing (contamination and fertility): For an environmentally conscious buyer, knowing your soil quality is valuable – especially if you plan gardens, orchards, or permaculture. We discussed earlier the possibility of lead or arsenic contamination in soils (common in urban lots or former orchards). If you intend to grow food, test for those heavy metals. University extension programs or private labs offer garden soil tests; you might have to specifically request lead/arsenic add-ons. For example, MSU Extension provides nutrient analysis for gardening and can screen for lead at extra cost. Another concern is historical use of the property – if it was ever a farm field, there could be residual pesticides (though most modern tests don’t routinely check old organochlorine pesticide residues unless specifically sent to a lab for that). If it was an old house site, sometimes debris (ash, coal cinders) can leave hotspots of lead or PAHs. The Michigan Environmental Assistance Center can guide homeowners on testing options; they maintain an Environmental Consultant Directory (michigan.gov) if you need a professional to assess soil or groundwater. From a fertility and health standpoint, sustainable practices will likely improve any soil you inherit: consider a basic soil test for pH and nutrients so you know if amendments are needed for healthy plant growth. Soil structure (sand vs clay) will tell you drainage – key for things like rain gardens or septic effectiveness. If a UST (underground storage tank) was on site (for heating oil or farm fuel), ensure it was removed properly and soil tested – remnants of old tanks can leak petroleum into soil/groundwater. Sellers should disclose any known fuel tanks or contamination (legislature.mi.gov), but if you see filler pipes or dead vegetation patches, investigate further. Michigan has funds for leaking residential heating oil tank cleanup in some cases, but prevention (removal before it leaks) is best.


In summary, budget for testing during your due diligence period: water test ($150 for a broad panel), septic inspection ($300-$500), soil tests (basic garden test ~$25, contaminants $50+). These upfront checks will not only protect your health and investment but also inform you of any remediation needed to make the property truly sustainable. A safe well, a sound septic, and healthy soil are the foundation of an eco-friendly homestead.


Indoor Environmental Safety and Building Materials



Even a “green” home can hide indoor environmental hazards that affect health and sustainability. Older Michigan homes especially may contain legacy materials like lead paint or asbestos, and any home can develop issues with radon, mold, or moisture. When buying, be prepared to address these indoor environmental factors:


  • Radon: Michigan has moderate to high radon potential in many areas due to glacial soils and certain bedrock. Radon is a radioactive gas that seeps from the ground and can accumulate in homes, increasing the risk of lung cancer. All of Michigan’s 83 counties have had homes test above the EPA action level (4.0 pCi/L), and state experts urge that every home be tested for radon regardless of locationmichigan.gov. Radon levels are hyper-local – one house might have a high reading while the neighbor’s is low. The EPA Radon Zone Map classifies counties: about 9 counties (e.g. Washtenaw, Jackson, Livingston, Lenawee, Hillsdale, Lapeer, etc.) are Zone 1 (highest risk) where a significant percentage of homes (25% or more) test high (michigan.govmichigan.gov). Many others are Zone 2 (moderate). For instance, in Washtenaw County, roughly 40% of tested homes exceeded 4 pCi/L (michigan.gov), and some southern counties have 50%+ of homes over the limit (michigan.gov). Even in Detroit (Wayne County), which is Zone 2, about 17% of tests were high (michigan.gov). The only way to know a specific house’s radon level is to test. As a buyer, you can request a radon test during inspection. This typically involves a 48-hour closed-house test with a specialized monitor or canisters. Mitigation is straightforward if levels are high: installing a sub-slab depressurization system (a vent pipe and fan) usually costs around $800–$1,500 and will greatly reduce radon. It’s a one-time fix and well worth the peace of mind. Michigan does not require radon testing in real estate deals, but some relocation companies and certain loans (HUD for multi-family) require it. Even if not required, do it for your own safety. If the seller already has a radon mitigation system, that’s a plus – check that it’s operational (fan running, etc.). For new construction, ask if radon-resistant features were built in (some builders will pre-install passive venting). The Michigan EGLE Radon Program offers information and sometimes low-cost test kits. Note: testing in winter (when homes are closed up) often yields the highest readings. If you test in summer and results are borderline (e.g. 3-4 pCi/L), consider re-testing in a colder season.


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  • Mold and moisture: Michigan’s humid continental climate means that mold can be an issue, especially in homes that are not well insulated or ventilated. Older homes (common in Metro Detroit and many cities) may have leaky basements, roof leaks, or poor ventilation that lead to chronic moisture – a breeding ground for mold. While there are no state laws requiring mold disclosure or testing, Michigan’s Seller Disclosure form does ask if the seller is aware of any environmental hazards like mold or formaldehyde (legislature.mi.gov). In practice, sellers might not disclose mold unless it’s a severe known problem. As a buyer, look for signs: a musty smell, visible black or gray patches on walls or rafters, recent paint jobs that might be covering up mildew, or dehumidifiers running constantly in basements. Mold can trigger allergies and asthma, so it’s an indoor air quality concern. Detroit, for example, has a large stock of 50+ year-old homes, many of which are poorly weatherized and have mold/mildew issues due to roof and plumbing leaks (planetdetroit.org). A University of Michigan study estimated tens of thousands of Detroit homes are in moderate or severe disrepair with issues like water intrusion (planetdetroit.org). If you’re buying an older home, especially one that sat vacant (common in some areas), presume that mold may be present.

    • Mitigation: A professional home inspection can flag moisture problems, but they typically don’t do mold sampling unless requested. If you suspect mold (say, you see staining on joists or smell odor), you could ask for a mold air test or surface swab by an industrial hygienist. However, air tests can be hit-or-miss. Often it’s better to identify the moisture source and address that – e.g. fix leaks, improve drainage, add ventilation. Small areas of mold (like on basement walls) can be cleaned with proper precautions, but extensive mold (covering drywall or framing) might require professional remediation (which can cost $1k to $5k or more depending on scope). Ensure bathroom fans and kitchen hoods vent outside (not just recirculate), and that attic spaces are vented – trapped moisture in attics leads to moldy roof decking.

    • Climate resilience tip: Consider a energy audit on older homes – those often reveal areas of moisture and insulation problems. Improving insulation and sealing can reduce condensation that causes mold, while also saving energy. If the home has a crawlspace, check for a vapor barrier and that it’s dry. In summary, make sure the home you choose has a plan for managing water: from roof to foundation, water should be directed away or handled, because a dry house is a healthy house.


  • Lead-based paint and lead hazards: Any Michigan home built before 1978 likely contains lead-based paint. Peeling or disturbed lead paint is a serious hazard for young children (causing lead poisoning). Federal law requires home sellers to provide a Lead Paint Disclosure for pre-1978 homes, along with any records of lead inspections. Sellers aren’t required to test, but they must disclose known lead. Many Detroit-area homes, for instance, have lead paint on window frames, porches, and trim – over time it chips into dust. Additionally, older plumbing can contain lead: pre-1950s homes might have lead service lines or lead-soldered pipes (note: Michigan cities are actively replacing lead water lines since the Flint crisis, but many homes still have them as of 2025). As a buyer, especially if you have or plan to have children, you may want a lead inspection or risk assessment. Certified lead inspectors use an XRF device to detect lead in paint and can test dust and soil for lead. In urban areas, soil near the foundation often has high lead from past paint peelingplanetdetroit.org. If a home is in poor condition (peeling paint everywhere), you might negotiate remediation or a price reduction. Mitigation: Lead paint in good condition (not chipping, not on friction surfaces) can be managed by keeping it painted over and intact. But friction surfaces like old wooden windows are problematic – opening and closing them creates lead dust. Consider budgeting for window replacement or repainting with lead-safe methods. Professional lead abatement (stripping paint, removing trim) is expensive, often tens of thousands for an entire house. Many homeowners opt for interim controls: repainting and sealing, and regularly cleaning lead dust (with HEPA vacuum and TSP cleaner). Be cautious during renovations – by law, contractors working on more than 6 sq.ft. of interior painted surface in pre-1978 homes must be RRP-certified (Renovation, Repair and Painting rule) and use lead-safe practices (e.g. plastic containment, no open flame burning). If you’re DIY-inclined, educate yourself on lead-safe methods or hire pros for risky work like sanding painted exteriors. On the financing side, note that FHA/VA appraisals will flag peeling paint on pre-78 homes and require it to be stabilized (scraped and repainted) before closing (fairway.com). So, addressing exterior peeling paint might even be a condition of your loan approval.


  • Asbestos: Asbestos was commonly used in building materials up through the 1970s (and even into the 1980s for some products). In Michigan homes you might find asbestos in old boiler and pipe insulation, floor tiles (especially 9x9 inch tiles), popcorn ceilings, old siding shingles, and roofing materials, among others. Asbestos is only a health hazard when its fibers become airborne (friable). Intact floor tiles or siding that are not deteriorating can often be left in place or covered. But if you plan renovations (like removing old flooring, or demoing walls that have asbestos insulation or plaster), you should test suspect materials beforehand. Sellers are not explicitly required to test or disclose asbestos in the standard form (though the form does ask about “environmental hazards…such as asbestos” (legislature.mi.gov), so a seller aware of asbestos is supposed to report it). Often they simply might not know. During your inspection, ask the inspector if they see materials that might contain asbestos and whether they recommend testing. Mitigation: The safest course with asbestos is usually professional abatement for any that will be disturbed. Removing asbestos pipe wrap or tile isn’t something a typical homeowner should do alone due to the inhalation risk. Costs can range widely – removing a few pipe elbows might be a few hundred dollars, whereas a whole house of asbestos siding could be several thousand. Alternatively, sometimes you can leave it and encapsulate (e.g. board over an asbestos tile floor rather than pull it up). If the home has an old 1950s furnace with asbestos on ducts, factor replacement (and proper disposal) into your rehab plans. Also check the attic – some older blow-in insulations, like vermiculite, can contain asbestos. The EPA advises assuming vermiculite (often branded Zonolite, looks like gray pebble-like insulation) is contaminated and not disturbing it. You can hire abatement companies to remove or stabilize it. Keep in mind, if you plan to demolish an older home or part of it, Michigan regulations require an asbestos survey and proper removal prior to demo.


  • Indoor air quality and other hazards: Other things to be alert for include formaldehyde (in some manufactured wood products or old insulation like UFFI – urea formaldehyde foam – which was used in the 1970s; the seller disclosure specifically asks if UFFI is present (legislature.mi.gov), and methane or sewer gas issues if the house has any dry drains (less common but occasionally in homes near landfills or with old cesspits). If the home is on well water, test for volatile organic chemicals if near fuel or solvent contamination – e.g. homes with old underground gasoline tanks nearby might need a lab VOC test. Carbon monoxide and combustion safety are also environmental safety issues: ensure the home has CO detectors and that any fossil fuel appliances are venting properly. An energy audit or home inspection can do a combustion safety test. Air quality for allergens is another angle – was the home a smoking household? Decades of tobacco smoke can leave residues (third-hand smoke) that are tough to fully remove without extensive cleaning or remodeling. If you’re very sensitive, factor that in.


  • Disclosure and testing/remediation costs: Michigan law requires sellers to disclose known hazards, but it does not require them to test for you. As a buyer, you have the opportunity during the inspection window to do your own testing. Professional tests to consider:


    • Radon test: ~$20 for a DIY kit or ~$150 for a professional continuous monitor test. Often home inspectors offer this as an add-on.

    • Lead risk assessment: $300-$500 for a thorough job, including multiple XRF readings and dust wipe sampling.

    • Asbestos survey: inspectors might charge a few hundred to sample a handful of materials (lab fees ~$20 per sample). Full surveys for big remodels can be more.

    • Mold assessment: could range $200-$600 depending on number of air samples. However, often a visual assessment by a knowledgeable inspector is enough to find moisture and mold.

    • General home inspection (always do this!) – inspectors will comment on many of these issues but are not specialists in all. If they flag something, you may need a specialist follow-up.


    If problems are found, you can negotiate with the seller. Some fixes, like installing a radon mitigation system or encapsulating a small asbestos area, are relatively low-cost in the context of home buying (in the hundreds or low thousands of dollars). Others, like whole-house lead abatement or extensive mold remediation, can be expensive – but you might qualify for grants/assistance. For example, the Michigan Lead Safe Home Program offers grants to remediate lead hazards for qualifying families, and some counties/cities (e.g. Detroit, Grand Rapids) have received HUD funds to address lead in homes (planetdetroit.org). Utility companies or state programs sometimes have rebates for indoor air improvements (like high-efficiency ventilation fans or furnace replacements that can help with air quality). Also consider the Green & Healthy Homes Initiative in Detroit and other areas, which integrates home repair with health outcomes (planetdetroit.org). They emphasize fixing hazards like lead, mold, and insulation together for comprehensive healthy housing.


In summary, don’t let indoor environmental issues deter you – they can be managed – but go in with eyes open. A truly sustainable home is one that is safe for its occupants. Testing for radon and lead, addressing mold and asbestos as needed, and ensuring good ventilation will make your home healthier and more efficient. The maintenance of a home plays a big role here too: simple habits like using exhaust fans, keeping gutters clean (to prevent basement leaks), and monitoring humidity can prevent many issues from arising. As you improve the home, opt for eco-friendly materials (low-VOC paints, formaldehyde-free cabinets, etc.) to further enhance indoor environmental quality. Michigan’s climate can be harsh (humid summers, cold winters), but with the right upgrades – from energy-efficient windows to proper sealing – you can create a home that’s both environmentally and personally sustainable.


Lending and Insurance Considerations


living in michigan

Financing a sustainable home and insuring it involves some additional considerations compared to a standard home purchase. Lenders and insurers want to be sure the property is safe and not at undue risk. Government-backed loans (FHA, VA, USDA) have specific requirements that align with many of the environmental health points we’ve covered. Here’s what to keep in mind:


  • Loan property standards (water, septic, hazards): If you’re using an FHA-insured mortgage, a VA loan, or a USDA Rural Development loan, the property must meet Minimum Property Requirements (MPRs) for safety and livability. This means the water supply must be safe and adequate – as noted earlier, FHA and VA will require a water test for homes with private wells. FHA generally follows local health standards or EPA standards for water; typically, a water test showing no coliform bacteria and nitrates under 10 mg/L is the bare minimum (shop.knowyourh2o.com). VA loans often ask for lead in water testing as well, especially if local guidelines suggest it (veteransunited.com). If any contaminants exceed allowed levels, you’ll need to correct that (e.g. install treatment) and possibly do a retest to satisfy the lender (veteransunited.com). Likewise, the septic system must be functional. An appraiser will note obvious signs of failure. Some lenders might ask for a septic inspection or pumped tank certification before closing, particularly if mandated by the county or if the appraisal raises concerns. Another MPR is that the home be free of hazardous conditions – this can include things like peeling lead paint, mold, or structural issues. FHA appraisals notoriously flag peeling paint in older homes (because of lead risk) – the defective paint must be remediated and repainted prior to loan approval (veteransunited.commortgagesolutions.net). This applies to exterior and interior surfaces with chipping paint. VA has a similar requirement: the VA appraiser will require that any chipping/peeling lead-based paint be corrected (scraped and repainted) and will need to certify that it’s done properly (veteransunited.com). If you’re buying a fixer-upper, be aware that major environmental or safety issues (e.g. active roof leak causing mold, or a non-working heating system) can make the home “uninsurable” for FHA or not meet VA standards. In such cases, you might need to use a rehab loan like an FHA 203(k) or a Fannie Mae Homestyle, which allow you to finance repairs. USDA loans, aimed at rural homes, also expect a property to have no health/safety hazards. They may be a bit more flexible on minor issues, but a contaminated well or failing septic would be a no-go without remedy. Additionally, homes in flood zones: any federally backed loan will require proof of flood insurance if the house is in a 100-year floodplain (fema.gov). And if a property is in a designated Superfund site or known environmental danger area, it could affect the appraisal or even lender willingness – although for residential properties this scenario is rare unless the contamination is directly impacting the home (e.g. an ongoing vapor intrusion issue from a chemical plume). It’s wise to inform your lender if you discover an environmental issue and have a plan to address it; sometimes lenders will hold back some funds in escrow until remediation is done, or in the case of some rehab loans, finance the cleanup.


  • Energy-efficient and green financing programs: Michigan homeowners can tap into various programs to help with energy improvements, some at the time of purchase. While these may not be “mortgages” in the traditional sense, they can complement your home loan:


    • FHA Energy Efficient Mortgage (EEM): This is an add-on to an FHA loan that allows you to borrow a bit extra to finance energy efficiency improvements. For example, after your home energy audit, you could roll in the cost of adding insulation, upgrading to a high-efficiency furnace, or installing solar panels (there are limits, generally the lesser of the cost of improvements or the savings over time, often capped around $8,000 or so without further qualifications). The nice part is the additional borrowing under an EEM doesn’t require you to re-qualify with higher income – FHA recognizes the energy savings offset the cost.


    • VA Energy Efficient Mortgage: Similarly, VA loans allow adding up to about $6,000 for energy improvements (like HVAC upgrades or thermal windows) with relatively light documentation. If you’re a veteran buying a home that needs efficiency work, ask your lender about this.


    • USDA Rural Development loans don’t have a formal EEM, but USDA does have programs for very low-income homeowners to get grants/loans for repairs including weatherization. Also, many credit unions in Michigan offer green energy loans for things like geothermal systems or solar – these might be home equity products post-purchase.


    • Michigan Saves: This is a state-supported green bank that provides low-interest financing for energy improvements. While it’s not a mortgage, after you buy the home you can use Michigan Saves to finance solar panels, insulation, efficient appliances, even health/safety fixes like removing asbestos or lead in some cases. Recently, MSHDA (Michigan State Housing Dev Authority) partnered with Michigan Saves on a $35 million green housing initiative, mostly for retrofitting affordable housing with efficiency and electrification (rpoaonline.org). Check if any programs from utility companies are available too – e.g., Consumers Energy and DTE have rebates for insulation, smart thermostats, etc., which can reduce the cost of improvements.


    • HUD’s Green Mortgage programs: Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac have products like the HomeStyle Energy Mortgage (allows extra financing for energy or water efficiency improvements, renewable energy, or resilience improvements up to 15% of the home’s value) and GreenCHOICE. If you’re going with a conventional loan, ask your lender if these options apply – for instance, you could finance solar panels or a new efficient roof as part of your mortgage. Some of these require an energy report or bids for the work.


    • Tax incentives: While not a financing product, remember the federal Investment Tax Credit (ITC) for solar (30% of the system cost as a credit) and credits for energy-efficient upgrades (windows, heat pumps, etc.) can effectively give you money back at tax time for making green improvements. Michigan currently does not have a state solar tax credit, but it has Property Assessed Clean Energy (PACE) financing enabled for commercial properties – not residential in most places as of now.


    In summary, if the home you’re buying will need upgrades to reach your sustainability goals (like better insulation or solar), there are financing tools to help. Roll-in financing means you don’t pay out of pocket later and you start saving on energy sooner. Just ensure any improvement costs and benefits are clearly documented for lender approval.


  • Insurance implications of environmental risks: Homeowners insurance in Michigan will cover typical hazards (fire, wind, etc.) but excludes most environmental pollution or gradual damage. That means if a problem like mold or lead paint causes damage or health issues, your insurance likely won’t pay for remediation (they expect maintenance and prevention by the owner). One notable exception: if you have a sudden incident like a burst pipe that leads to mold, a standard policy often covers the water damage (and sometimes mold removal up to a limit). But long-term mold from humidity? Not covered. So, it’s on you to manage those risks. Flooding is excluded from homeowners policies entirely – you need a separate flood insurance policy (through the NFIP or private insurer) for flood coverage. If you’re in a floodplain, insurance is a must; even if not, consider it if the area has a history of drainage issues or sewer backups. In some Michigan cities, you can add a sewer backup rider to your insurance – highly recommended if the home has an old sewer line or the area floods, as sewer backups can cause nasty interior damage. Check if the home has a backwater valve installed (a device to prevent municipal sewer backflow); if not, you might install one for peace of mind.


  • For homes near known environmental hazards, insurance won’t cover, say, cleanup of contaminated soil on your land – that would be the polluter’s responsibility (or yours if you knowingly buy it). Do note, Michigan law has provisions that new homeowners aren’t held liable for pre-existing contamination if they were not the polluter and they exercise “due care” (this is Part 201 liability protection for innocent purchasers). But you must follow certain steps, like doing a baseline environmental assessment (BEA) before or shortly after purchase to document existing contamination (gis-michigan.opendata.arcgis.com). This is more applicable if you buy a former industrial site to redevelop as housing; typical home buyers don’t need to file BEAs unless they’re knowingly buying a polluted property (which is uncommon). If you are in that scenario (perhaps buying a cheap property from a land bank that used to be a gas station or factory), consult an environmental attorney or expert to handle the BEA and Due Care Plan so you aren’t on the hook for cleanup costs.


  • Insurance and older homes: A practical note – if the home has outdated systems (old knob-and-tube wiring, an old oil tank, etc.), insurers might require updates or charge higher premiums. Some insurers in Michigan have been wary of insuring homes with older roofs or old plumbing because of water damage risk. If you plan to make sustainability upgrades that also reduce risk – for example, replacing an old roof (good for energy and prevents leaks) or upgrading to all-electric heat (removing an oil tank) – inform your insurer. You might get a better rate or at least avoid a non-renewal. Wind mitigation isn’t as big in Michigan as in hurricane zones, but do secure any loose outdoor structures (like solar panel mounts or sheds) because insurance will ask how they were damaged if they fly off in a storm.

    • Also consider umbrella liability insurance if you have features like an on-site farm stand or agritourism on your sustainable property – your standard policy covers personal liability, but if you invite the public (even egg customers or CSA pickup folks), you may want extra protection.


  • Property value and appraisals: One challenge with green homes can be appraisal – not all appraisers give credit for features like solar panels, geothermal heat, or superior insulation if there aren’t comparable sales (“comps”) with those features. This can affect financing because lenders lend on the appraised value. In Michigan’s markets today, many buyers value solar and energy efficiency, but the data is still catching up. To help, you can provide the appraiser with documentation of the cost savings (e.g. energy bills, HERS rating, or a list of green features) and point out any recent sales of efficient homes. Some appraisers have the GREEN designation for understanding high-performance homes. If your home is certified (e.g. LEED, Energy Star Home, Living Building Challenge), make sure that’s noted in the listing and appraisal. Efficient homes often have lower carrying costs (utilities), which effectively increases what a buyer can afford – but the appraisal needs to justify the price to the lender. It’s an evolving area – in Metro Detroit, a few new developments of net-zero or solar homes have started to create comparables.


In summary, choose your lender and insurance agent with an eye toward environmental understanding. Many lenders in Michigan are well-versed in rural properties with wells and septic's – provide them all inspection results to smooth the process. And insurance companies will ask detailed questions about the home’s age, updates, and risks – be honest and shop around if one company penalizes an old feature that you plan to fix anyway. By leveraging green financing programs and being mindful of risk management, you can save money and protect your investment in the long run.


Resources and Tools for Sustainable Homebuyers in Michigan


Navigating all these factors can be complex, but there are excellent resources to help Michigan homebuyers make informed decisions. Below is a directory of tools and contacts:


Environmental Information & Mapping:

green living in michigan


  • EGLE Environmental Mapper (RIDE Mapper): Michigan EGLE’s interactive map for contamination sites, underground storage tanks, and brownfields (michigan.gov). This is a great starting point to see if any known contamination exists near a property. EGLE’s Open Data Portal also has layers for Part 201 sites (environmental cleanups) (gis-michigan.opendata.arcgis.com) and locations of sites like Superfunds.


  • MPART PFAS Site Map: The Michigan PFAS Action Response Team (MPART) provides an online GIS map showing all officially identified PFAS investigation sites, along with sampling data for nearby wells and water systems (meritlabs.com). If you suspect PFAS could be an issue, this map will show if the property is in a known impact area.


  • FEMA Flood Map Service Center: (Website: msc.fema.gov) Enter the address to view the official flood zone designation. This will tell you if flood insurance is required and the level of flood risk. Also check FEMA’s Flood Factor tool or FEMA Flood Insurance Rate Maps for more granular risk data. Some counties (like Wayne and Oakland) have their own floodplain maps on GIS sites as well.


  • EGLE Wetlands Map Viewer: (Michigan Wetlands Map) An online tool to identify potential wetland areas on or near the property (mcgi.state.mi.us). Keep in mind it’s a guidance tool – only a professional delineation can confirm wetlands – but it’s useful for a preliminary check. Also consider the Soil Survey maps (via USDA NRCS Web Soil Survey) – hydric soils indicate likely wetlands or poor drainage.


  • EGLE High Risk Erosion and Coastal Hazard maps: If you’re looking at Great Lakes shoreline property, EGLE provides maps of High Risk Erosion Areas and flood risk along coasts (gis-egle.hub.arcgis.com). Contact EGLE’s Water Resources Division for specifics on setback requirements.


  • EPA Superfund Sites List: The EPA website lists all Superfund sites in Michigan and their status (epa.gov). There’s also a Michigan Sites of Environmental Contamination list (Part 201) available from EGLE. While these databases are technical, they can be searched by county or city.


  • MyEnviro Portal (EPA ECHO): For a quick check on environmental records, the EPA’s ECHO database can show if facilities near the property have had violations (air, water, hazardous waste). For example, if there’s a factory nearby, you can see its compliance history.


  • Michigan Environmental Health Tracking (MiTracking): This MDHHS program has some tools and data on things like arsenic in groundwater by county, radon test rates, and other health indicators that might be useful.


  • Local GIS portals: Many Michigan counties and cities have online GIS mapping with layers such as parcel info, floodplains, drains, sometimes even historical aerial imagery. For instance, Washtenaw County’s GIS has plume maps for the Gelman dioxane site (washtenaw.org).


    Zoning & Property Records:


  • Municipal and County Websites: To find zoning ordinances, start with the city or county official website. Many have a “Code of Ordinances” online. Key sections to look for: Zoning ordinance (for use regulations, e.g. keeping of animals, accessory structures), General Ordinances (sometimes chicken/beekeeping rules are here), and any Master Plan or sustainability plan which might give insight into future ordinance changes.


  • Michigan Association of Planning (MAP): This professional org doesn’t list each ordinance, but they publish best practices and sometimes directories. They have resources on urban agriculture ordinances, solar zoning, etc., which might be of interest for deeper dives.


  • MSU Extension’s Land Use Page: MSU Extension has many bulletins and webinars on planning & zoning topics. For example, their Citizen’s Guide to Planning & Zoning is a helpful primer on how Michigan zoning works. They also have specific resources like sample zoning for solar energy systems (canr.msu.edu), urban livestock ordinance recommendations (canr.msu.edu), and the Right to Farm Act guidance for local governments.


  • County Health Department directories: If you need info on well/septic rules, go to the county health or environmental health website. They often have brochures on well water testing recommendations, lists of licensed well drillers and septic installers, etc. For instance, Ottawa County has a good FAQ on wells and Washtenaw County posts annual reports for their Time-of-Sale program.


  • Property deed restrictions/HOAs: Beyond public zoning, always ask for any deed restrictions, subdivision covenants, or HOA bylaws on the property. The seller or their agent should provide HOA documents if applicable (in Michigan, sellers must disclose if a property is subject to an HOA and provide governing documents). Read those to see if there are rules about fences, gardens, solar panels (which as of 2025 can’t ban solar, but they might still have an approval process), paint colors, etc. If an HOA rule seems to conflict with your sustainability goals, remember the new Homeowners’ Energy Policy Act gives you rights for solar and energy devices (planetdetroit.org), and Michigan law (as well as the Michigan Uniform Condominium Act) also protects the right to install solar panels on condominium units in many cases. When in doubt, consult an attorney familiar with HOA law – but at least now you have state law on your side for renewables.


    Testing and Laboratory Services

    water test michigan

  • Michigan EGLE Laboratory Services: The state lab in Lansing offers water testing services for the public (for a fee) – often through your local health department. EGLE also certifies dozens of private labs for drinking water testing (michigan.gov). You can find a list of certified drinking water labs on the EGLE website or via MDHHS’s MiLab program. This ensures the lab follows proper methods for things like bacteria or chemical testing.


  • Certified Well Inspectors and Septic Inspectors: While not a lab, knowing where to find inspectors is key. Many county health departments have lists of registered septic evaluators and water well professionals. For example, Washtenaw County lists the professionals approved to do Time-of-Sale inspections. The Michigan Onsite Wastewater Association (MOWRA) might have a member directory if you need an expert opinion on a septic system outside of a sale.


  • Soil Testing Labs: For garden or agricultural soil tests (nutrients, pH, organic matter), MSU Soil and Plant Nutrient Lab is the go-to (often accessed by buying a soil test kit from Extension offices or online). For contaminants in soil, not every lab does that for consumers, but some environmental consulting labs will – Merit Labs in East Lansing (mentioned above for PFAS) is one that handles soil, water, etc., and there are others like Trace Analytical or ACT Laboratories in Michigan. The MDHHS Environmental Lab can sometimes assist in lead or arsenic testing in soil if referred through a health program.


  • Radon Testing: You can get DIY radon kits from many county health departments at low cost (often ~$10-$15). They send it to a lab for analysis. If you prefer a professional, look for a NRPP or NRSB certified radon measurement professional in Michigan. The state radon program’s website or hotline (800-RADON GAS) can help locate qualified testers. For mitigation, look for certified radon mitigators (many are also heating/cooling contractors or independent specialists).


  • Mold and Indoor Air: If you need mold analysis, there are labs (e.g. IMS Laboratory in Michigan) that will analyze mold spore traps or tape lifts – usually accessed via a mold inspection professional. Michigan Industrial Hygiene Society or AIHA directory can help find certified industrial hygienists for indoor air quality assessments. However, for general concerns, start with your home inspector or a restoration company that offers mold investigations.


  • Lead and Asbestos Inspectors: Michigan’s Lead Safe Home Program can direct you to certified lead risk assessors. Also, companies that do asbestos abatement often offer testing or can refer you to a lab (some Michigan labs like Fibertec or ACS do asbestos identification). Always use a NVLAP-certified lab for asbestos samples. The Michigan Occupational Safety and Health Administration (MIOSHA) website lists accredited asbestos and lead training providers – those entities can often point consumers to testing services.


    Additional Support and Information:

    michigan state university

  • Michigan State University Extension: They have experts in every county who can answer questions on well water (some participate in the Michigan Groundwater Stewardship program), septic maintenance, gardening in contaminated soils (e.g. using raised beds to avoid lead), and farm conservation practices. MSU Extension’s Ask an Expert online allows you to submit questions. They also host workshops, like “Smart Gardening” for soil health and well/septic user education programs.


  • Health Departments & EGLE District Offices: Don’t hesitate to call the local health department with questions about a well or septic permit history – many keep records that could be very informative (e.g. the exact depth of your well, or when the septic was last replaced). EGLE’s district offices (there are several regions in MI) have environmental quality analysts who can talk about specific contaminated sites or environmental permit issues. For instance, if you are concerned about a certain factory nearby, the district office can tell you if it’s under monitoring.


  • Right to Farm protections: If you’re planning a mini-farm, Michigan’s Right to Farm Act and GAAMPs are something to understand. The Michigan Department of Agriculture & Rural Development (MDARD) is in charge of GAAMP standards. You can find the GAAMPs (for livestock, manure management, etc.) on MDARD’s site. They also have a “Site Selection GAAMP” which clarifies livestock siting relative to local zoning – basically if you’re in an area zoned residential with houses nearby, RTFA likely won’t protect your right to keep a lot of animals unless those new bills pass. However, if you buy a 10-acre property in an agricultural zone, RTFA will protect your farming from nuisance lawsuits as long as you follow GAAMPs. It’s a nuanced area, so MDARD or MSU Extension resources on small farms are helpful.


  • Home Energy Audits: For efficiency-minded buyers, consider getting a home energy audit after you move in. Many utilities in Michigan offer free or discounted audits. An audit will use tools like blower doors and infrared cameras to identify insulation gaps, leaks, etc. This can guide you on improving indoor comfort and reducing utility bills – an important part of sustainability. DTE and Consumers have programs, and there are independent auditors certified by RESNET or BPI in Michigan.


  • Green Building Organizations: If you’re interested in going beyond baseline and possibly pursuing a green certification (or just learning more), groups like the US Green Building Council – Detroit Region, the GreenHome Institute (based in West Michigan), or the Living Future Collaborative in Michigan can be good networks. They often host educational events and can connect you to professionals familiar with solar installations, greywater systems (note: Michigan plumbing code doesn’t yet fully embrace greywater reuse, but things are evolving), advanced insulation, etc.


  • Local sustainability initiatives: Many cities have sustainability offices or environmental commissions. For instance, Ann Arbor has an ambitious A2Zero plan for carbon neutrality and may offer incentives or guidance for solar and electrification for homeowners. Detroit’s Office of Sustainability is working on home repair and solar programs in the city. Grand Rapids has a strong sustainability department too. Tapping into these can yield rebates or pilot programs (like bulk solar buys or rain garden workshops) that benefit homeowners.


  • HOA document review: If the home is in an HOA, get those documents early. If you see restrictions that worry you (say they ban vegetable gardens in front yards, or only allow certain roof materials that might preclude solar shingles), discuss with your Realtor or a lawyer. However, remember that state law now backs owners on many green improvements (HOAs can’t ban solar or EV chargers outright due to the Homeowners’ Energy Policy Act (planetdetroit.org), and clotheslines are protected under a 2016 Michigan law promoting energy conservation, sometimes dubbed the “right to hang” law). For gardens, Michigan doesn’t have a statewide “right to garden” law, but you could potentially make a case under the homeowners’ energy act if, for example, an HOA tried to ban native plant landscaping or rain barrels – the law mentions an array of “energy-saving measures” beyond just solar. It might be a gray area, so it’s better if your HOA is onboard with sustainability to begin with. Some HOAs in Michigan are, interestingly, creating “green committees” to encourage residents to adopt solar and eco-friendly landscaping now that the legal landscape is shifting in favor of these practices.


Lastly, as you integrate into your new community, remember that knowledge is power. Michigan’s environment is as diverse as its communities – from dense urban neighborhoods to rural farmlands to lakeshore towns. Use the tools above to gather data and don’t be afraid to ask questions.


For example, if you’re at a home showing and notice a neighboring property with drums or old vehicles, ask the seller if they know anything about it (it could be innocent or it could be a small illegal dump – neighbors often have the scoop). Check with neighbors about flooding or seasonal issues – Michiganders are usually friendly and willing to share local insights.


In conclusion, buying a sustainable, environmentally conscious home in Michigan means doing a bit more homework upfront – but that effort pays off in peace of mind and long-term savings. By understanding zoning freedoms and limits, checking for environmental hazards and infrastructure conditions, leveraging green financing, and utilizing the wealth of local resources, you’ll be well on your way to a home that is safe, efficient, and in harmony with Michigan’s environment. Enjoy the process of making it truly your sustainable sanctuary, whether that’s by planting a permaculture garden, adding solar panels under the Michigan sun, or simply knowing that your well water is crystal clean. Happy home hunting!


Cheers,

Andrew



Andrew mcmanamon realtor

Andrew McManamon is a Michigan REALTOR® with Signature Sotheby’s International Realty and provides real estate services to Buyers, Sellers and Investors throughout SE Michigan including Livingston County, Oakland County, Washtenaw County, Genesee County & beyond. Andrew has become one of the pillars of Michigan real estate. Prior to his real estate career Andrew was responsible for managing a senior living facility in Brighton, Michigan as a dining supervisor and an activities assistant. Andrew’s passion to help people is unlike any other, and he continues to strive to be the best resource he can be. Andrew graduated from Cleary University in Howell, Michigan with a double major in business and marketing, and currently resides in Brighton, Michigan.



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